
The Galapagos Island
I can’t believe two weeks have already passed! Since arriving in Quito, I’ve spent ten glorious days in the Galápagos Islands, flown back to Quito, and made my way into Colombia by bus. My three days in Quito were great – just enough time to explore the Old Town’s beautiful architecture and get a vicious case of food poisoning (I suspect it was street food… 2am taco stand outside the bar, who could say no?).[spacer size=”20″]
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Despite the day spent in bed recovering, I was able to organize my trip to the islands, and was on my way to the airport as soon as I could keep fluids down. As a biology student, I had learned quite a bit about the Galápagos, mostly in relation to Darwin and the theory of natural selection. When a friend of mine who is an avid scuba diver mentioned it was the best diving she had experienced, I knew I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. What awaited me, however, was much more than I could have ever imagined. In short, Galápagos is a magical and strange place! Never have I been to a place where the animals are unrestricted in their movements and treated so reverently. As a result, they are unthreatened and unthreatening. Sea lions sun bathe and swim everywhere; their presence is akin to that of the domesticated dog. They will even help themselves on to the docked boats, or lay on a bench right next to you. Birds of every beautiful species come right up to you, and iguanas are as numerous as squirrels are in North America. Penguins, flamingos and the famous Blue Footed Boobies are just some of the creatures that are “normal” in Galápagos.[spacer size=”20″]
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My friend was right about the diving. I went on six dives (most of my budget!) and was blown away every time. Hammerhead sharks, turtles, white tip sharks, black tip sharks, manta rays, and schools and schools of the most colourful and exotic fish were a regular sight for divers and snorkellers alike. On my second day there, I met a Brazilian geologist and we ended up traveling to the different islands together for the rest of the week. Through him, I developed an even greater appreciation and understanding of this special place. We visited Los Tuneles, an area where the volcanic lava formed into little tunnels with cacti sprouting from the rocks. It was both beautiful and mystifying – the feeling of the sublime where you are simultaneously humbled and awed by what nature can do over millions of years.
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There were moments when I truly felt like I was standing on untouched land, and other heartbreaking moments when the footprint left by tourists and locals was very visible. I wonder how much longer they will be able to keep this up, even with the restrictions on fishing and migration (the only way for Ecuadorians to live in Galápagos is to marry someone who has Galápagos citizenship!). Even with these restrictions, the population has substantially grown over the past few years. Evidence for more growth is everywhere, with construction on the islands of Isabela and Santa Cruz. While I clearly appreciate being one of the lucky to visit these special islands, a little part of me feels guilty for being part of its slow demise. Overwhelmingly, though, I’ve come away from this experience with more respect for the Earth and a little glimpse of what it might have been like before humans industrialized it.