The Remedy is Diversity
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New Orleans

Words
Nana
Filed Under
Featured
Published
Dec 9, 2014 · Ottawa
New Orleans
Statue of Andrew Jackson

“What Happens in Vegas may stay in Vegas, but what Happens in New Orleans goes home with you.”

When it comes to US cities, New Orleans is truly as good as it gets. With beautiful landmarks, exquisitely prepared cuisine, historic bars, and jazz clubs with a laissez-faire attitude, there isn’t a day spent in this city that you will regret. I embarked on my second trip to New Orleans this past fall for an unforgettable halloween weekend, which was capped off the following week by a thrilling Saints loss at the hands of the 49ers in the Mercedez Benz Superdome. I lived a life sipping on sazeracs, listening to some of the greatest Brass bands in the country, eating the best PoBoy’s from Parasol’s restaurant and spending some quality time running through the garden district, uptown, midtown, the quarter, and the Bywater districts. New Orleans truly has a flavour and spice for anyone lucky enough to visit. If this article doesn’t inspire you to head there, I hope you’re having an amazing time in that virtual reality machine you’re hooked up to.

The French Quarter

Bourbon Street in the French Quarter is perhaps the most famous street in the world, and as you’ve probably heard, the party doesn’t stop. The party just resets between the hours of 5am and 6am. Some of the feature places to visit are, Lafitte’s, the oldest bar in New Orleans, Tropical Isle, home of the grenade and shark attacks, Razzoo Bar & Patio with a beautiful outdoor courtyard and a litany of 3 for 1 happy hour deals, and Preservation Hall, one of the greatest and oldest live venues New Orleans has to offer.

As much as these clubs and music venues may draw you in, the true fun in bourbon street exists in plain sight. If you’re a people watcher, you’ll be in the strangest kind of heaven. Every type of character imaginable blends in a rich cacophony of alcohol fuelled intention. To counteract the debauchery, religious protestors canvas the street to save your soul from what they view as a hellish babylonian example of the destruction of the moral fabric of America. Maybe they’re right? Maybe this street is the embodiment of humanity’s destruction? At the end of it all, everyone is too busy acting Babylonian to care.

When it comes to Frenchmen Street, this is the part of the ‘quarter’ meant for more mature tastes and perhaps your first taste out of the tourist district. Everyone will tell you that Bourbon is filled with college kids puking and pounding as many hurricanes, Grenades, and Shark attacks as they possibly can. When it comes to frenchmen Street, you’ll find that you’ve ditched the sugar and slush drinks, and earned your first real taste of the true spirit of the city. You’ll also find that you’re taking a stroll in the centre of the Jazz and Brass Universe. Bars such as the Spotted Cat, the Blue Nile, and Snug Harbor feature immensely talented musicians, capable of moving any crowd into musical bliss. If you aren’t a fan of Jazz or Brass, when you get to New Orleans, Frenchman is where that will change.

If you’re making the trip to New Orleans, Bourbon is a must see if it’s your first time visiting the city and if you love big crowds. It’s world famous, and you owe it to yourself to pay homage. After you’re done with the heathens on bourbon, it’s essential that you check out the restaurants and bars in the rest of the quarter. Frenchmen Street is without a doubt the best gateway for you to do so.

Mardi Gras

You can’t talk about New Orleans without talking about Mardi Gras, and just so you know, it’s everything you thought it was, and more. Carnival Krewes’ band together each year, led by the city’s most wealthy citizens to create floats, costumes, and launch beads and other goodies at outstretched hands that line the parade routes. Super Krewes follow the exact same parade route and schedule every single year with the biggest parade being Endymion on the Saturday before Fat Tuesday. People dance in the streets, cadets march, and high school bands and cheerleaders are on full showcase. If you’re heading down for Mardi Gras, the best case scenario is to meet some of the locals and party the way they do. Bourbon Street & the French Quarter are must sees, but if you can find a local hook up, they can provide a link to the best parade routes and house parties to help maximize your time and give you a the true Mardi Gras experience.  

Mardi Gras Myths

There are various misconceptions about Mardi Gras by those looking forward to visiting the festival one day.

THE ONE DAY FESTIVAL

One of the common misconceptions about Mardi Gras is that it lasts for a day or two, when in fact the Mardi Gras celebrations begin at the end of January when carnival season begins and finishes off on the Tuesday before lent which is nearly a month long celebration!

WHAT HAPPENS ON BOURBON, STAYS ON BOURBON

Another misconception is that Mardi Gras only occurs on Bourbon Street and the french quarter, when in fact most of the major parades happen Uptown and in the Mid City districts.

BOOBS AND BEADS

One of the biggest misconceptions about Mardi Gras is that it’s basically an excuse for women to go topless and show off for beads. Flash your chest and… you get the rest. In my experience down there, I saw a couple of females flashing, but it definitely wasn’t as rampant as someone would believe; it also happened to be on bourbon Street where the debauchery lives. For the most part, it has to be understood that Mardi Gras parades are meant to be fun for all types, including kids. You are definitely allowed to have fun, drink, dance, and party with reckless abandon, but for the most part, the clothes stay on. My apologies go out to all the people who’ve never seen a naked body and were really hoping to pop their visual cherries.

“Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are”

 

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Eggs Benedict with Fried Shrimp, Collared Greens, and Hollandaise on Cornbread

Whether it’s the french, creole, or southern influence, New Orleans knows how to prepare a meal like no other city I’ve been to. Incredible staples such as Jambalaya, crawfish, gumbo and po-boys are absolute musts, but keep in mind that as extreme lovers of cuisine, New Orleans chefs have found a way to take flavour to unprecedented levels with any dish they prepare. As a tourist, since you’ll most likely be in the French Quarter, a great place to grab a bite for a quick snack is the French market. You’ll find a wide variety of New Orleans favourites and twists on traditional recipes at amazing prices. If you need a few souvenirs, this is a great spot.

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Just like most markets, The french market is packed on weekends, but you can get all kinds of goodies like gumbo and crawfish.

NOLA-Crawfish

Crawfish

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Louisiana Pizza Kitchen

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When I asked around about which restaurants to visit in New Orleans, one name consistently popped up on the list, The Louisiana Pizza Kitchen. The Louisiana Pizza Kitchen has operated successfully for over 20 years, with 2 locations across the city. Each of the locations in New Orleans are now independently owned with slightly different menus.

The Louisiana Pizza Kitchen has been described as the ‘Picasso of wood-fired pizza’, and after tasting it myself, I’m the last person outside of New Orleans who would ever disagree with that statement. The Louisiana Pizza Kitchen in the uptown location is a clear favourite of the locals around riverbend and college students alike, while the location in the french quarter attracts numerous tourists along with locals. Whichever location you choose, the Louisiana Pizza Kitchen is guaranteed to be a favourite of yours anytime you visit. As amazing as the Pizza is at the Louisiana Pizza Kitchen, don’t ignore the rest of the menu. Items such as the Lasagna and the myriad of pasta options make this place one of New Orleans biggest staples.

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Praline Connection

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As a huge fan of southern cuisine, the Praline Connection Restaurant is one of the major reasons that New Orleans is solidified in the hearts of foodies everywhere. With perhaps the greatest fried chicken I’ve ever tasted, soft shell crawfish, incredible jambalaya, and way too many menu items to even deal with in one sitting (even though you’ll want to), the Praline connection is one that I wish I could make on a daily basis. The Praline Connection has 3 locations for you to enjoy, with one of those being a candy store. The location for you to pay the most attention to is at 542 Frenchmen Street, close to the Blue Nile, and the second being in Louis Armstrong international airport so that you can enjoy one last bite before you take off for your final destination.


Upon my arrival to New Orleans, my good friend was determined to make sure that I went to the best restaurants in the city. We had conquered the Praline Connection and LPK, but as far as she was concerned, there were still a gang of restaurants that would blow my mind. She was right, and I’m still working off the fat as you read this. The following restaurants are a few of the amazing restaurants I had the opportunity to try out this past fall in New Orleans Louisiana.

Jacque-Imo’s

Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake

Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake

When I first heard the words ‘shrimp and alligator cheesecake’, my brain tried to wrap around the idea of a cold sausage, cold shrimp, and a decadent New York style cheesecake combined into one dish. Thank God I was wrong, that could have been weird. This incarnation of “cheesecake” is singlehandedly the most amazing item of food I have ever tried, and I meant that. As soon as we sat down, my friend ordered it immediately. Within 10 minutes, it was sitting in front of us in all of its glory. Within 1 minute it was gone. The cheesecake was warm, and more reminiscent of a cheese flavoured meatloaf than anything else. The alligator sausage was perfectly spiced, and the tiny shrimp added the perfect touch of texture and flavour.

Aside from this cheesecake from the gods, If you have the chance to visit Jacque-Imo’s, you’ll get to experience one of the most well-rounded NOLA style menu’s in the city. It was one of those scenarios in which you stare at the menu with your stomach grumbling, while every menu description you read sounds exactly like what you want. Thank god I ordered the best house Salad of all time with fried oysters on top. With items like deep-fried Roast Beef Po-Boys, Crab meat stuffed Shrimp, and traditional favourites like Creole Jambalaya and Gumbo, how the hell are you supposed to make a decision? I ended up ‘settling’ for the fried chicken and got way more than I bargained for. Four big pieces of chicken, perfectly salted string fries, and sliced dill pickles as garnish. The one thing I realized while eating at Jacque-Imo’s and in New Orleans in general is that the restaurants are not stingy when it comes to portion sizes. Like I said earlier, I’m working off the fat as I type this.

After our meal, we walked from our table towards the exit and right past the kitchen where the chefs all reside. I wanted to stop and shake every single one of their hands and thank them for being the incredible beauties that they are. They cook day in and day out, and I hope they see the true appreciation of their customers whenever someone walks by the line.


Dat Dog

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The best Hot Dog I’ve ever had

Let’s just say that before walking into Dat Dog on Magazine Street, I had just finished an amazing breakfast at a place called Atchaflaya. I wasn’t hungry at all, but as a man, I can always make room. Some good friends had told me all about Dat Dog, and about the alligator sausage dogs that were undoubtedly the best they’ve ever had. I walked into the restaurant knowing that it could have been the last chance I had to try this place since my schedule had taken me all over town, so I mentally prepared myself and walked straight to the counter.

When you’re ordering a hot dog from Dat Dog, you have 2 potential moves to make. You can either select any of their sausages with any toppings you can creatively choose, or you can choose a sausage and let the chefs put something amazing for you. I obviously did the latter and the result is the best Hot Dog I’ve ever had. They offer all kinds of local beers on tap, great cocktails, and at the location I visited (magazine street) the bar even loops out onto the patio so it can service all areas of the restaurant with ease. Dat Dog has three locations, Magazine Street, Freret Street, and Frenchmen.


Atchafalaya

Atchaflaya

901 Louisiana Avenue

Now this place has a little piece of my heart. As a bartender, I have the utmost respect for its cocktail menu, and as a lover of breakfast, I have even more respect for its food. How does a duck fat washed Sazerac sound to you? I can tell you that it was one of the smoothest cocktails I’ve ever thrown back. For breakfast, I enjoyed their ‘Cochon Du L’eggs’, a dish consisting of sunny side-up eggs, pulled pork, cornbread pudding, creole coleslaw, and a blackberry-cane syrup along with a Bloody Mary that I put together at their do-it-yourself Bloody Mary bar. Atchafalaya is definitely a restaurant you don’t want to miss out on, just remember, brunch ends at 2pm so don’t be a knucklehead, please shake off the hangover and get to the restaurant nice and early.


Delachaise

Delachaise

3442 Saint Charles Avenue

Another favourite of the locals, Delachaise offers an incredible wine list, great patio, beautiful decor, and as is a common theme in New Orleans, incredible atmosphere. I only stopped here for a short time on my final night in New Orleans, but I can tell you that this is without a doubt a local favourite and a must-visit.


The Joint

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701 Mazant Street

When you’re in the south, finding quality BBQ shouldn’t be hard to find. The thing is, BBQ isn’t one of New Orleans biggest specialties. The city will lure you in with it’s cajun fried and creole choices, but it doesn’t focus on BBQ as much as some of the other southern states. This restaurant is one of the exceptions to that maxim. The Joint is located in the by water district on Mazant street, and it is well worth the trip outside of the main tourist zones. I had a combination of ribs and sausage with mac and cheese, and kept a smile on my face for the rest of the day. I definitely had a tough time choosing between my meal, and the slow cooked brisket, pulled pork sandwich, or any of their chicken options, but I was extremely happy with my combo.


Cochon

Cochon

930 Tchoupitoulas Street

Located in the lower garden district, Cochon is by far one of the best restaurants in the city. Set in a renovated warehouse, Cochon’s menu focuses on locally sourced pork, produce, and seafood. Everything is made in a traditional cajun style, and you’d be hard pressed to find many places that can match the flavours that come out of Chef Link and Chef Stryjewski’s kitchen. If you’re going to visit Cochon, you may want to come back the next day for lunch and visit the next spot on this list.

Cochon’s Butcher

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The Pig Mac

The Pig Mac. The greatest spin on the worlds most famous burger. Where can you find it? Only at Cochon’s Butcher. ‘Butcher’ is not only the butcher shop for Cochon’s restaurant as its name suggests, but also a sandwich shop, wine bar, and merchandise shop. In terms of food, they offer house-cured meats and sausages that you can purchase by the pound, or allow the cooks to create fantastic sandwiches such as the Pig Mac above, the Cochon Muffaletta, the Cubano, and the Morrocan spiced lamb. In addition to the sandwiches, you can throw in some mac + Cheese, incredible coleslaw, a Duck Pastrami Slider, or perhaps the best marinated Brussel sprouts you will ever taste as some of the options for a side. All of this is available for take-out, along with their specialty cocktails. Did I mention that I’m still working off the fat as I type this? I hope the t-shirt I bought from this place still fits.

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“One thing about music, when it Hits You Feel No Pain”

New Orleans is the city of Jazz, and the constant soundtrack you hear on the streets and in the bars is a testament to this. If you’re a fan of music and all it can do for your spirit and soul, this city will give you a much needed dose that your very own city may be lacking.  No matter what day of the week it is, you can always find a band rocking a party. Bands like the Soul Rebels, who tour North America quite frequently, can be found at places like The Blue Nile, and I for one can attest, you’ll never see a dance floor quite like the ones you’ll see in any of the jazz bars on Frenchmen or in the Quarter.

Every year on the weekend of Halloween, New Orleans is host to an inner-city festival called Voodoofest. Voodoofest, located in city park, features some of the greatest acts from various genres of music. 2014 featured major acts such as Outkast, Lauryn Hill, Slayer, The Foo Fighters, Pretty Lights, and Fedde Le Grande. Most inner-city festivals are lucky to feature two or three of these acts, but since it’s the Big Easy, this line up doesn’t sound like too much of a stretch does it?

The Hotel Monteleone

This city does tourism like no one else and whether you’re staying with friends or in one of the numerous hotels in the french quarter and beyond, the southern hospitality will make it difficult for you to leave the Big Easy. One place that I recommend if you want to enjoy New Orleans in the lap of luxury is the Hotel Monteleone; The largest hotel in the French Quarter.

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214 Royal Street

Antonio Monteleone was an industrious nobleman who was operating a very successful shoe factory in Sicily when he heard great things about America. The call of adventure motivated him to pack the tools of his trade and head for “the land of opportunity.” Antonio arrived in New Orleans circa 1880 and opened a cobbler shop on Royal Street, the busy thoroughfare of commerce and banking in America’s most European city. At the time Royal Street was indeed the grand street of the “Vieux Carre,” as the French Colonials sometimes called the new town.

Monteleone-Lobby

In 1886, Mr. Monteleone bought a 64-room hotel on the corner of Royal and Iberville streets in New Orleans’ world famous French Quarter. The setting was ripe for Antonio to spread his entrepreneurial wings when the nearby Commercial Hotel became available for purchase. That was only the beginning of an amazing historical landmark that is one of the last great family owned and operated hotels in the city. Since 1886, four generations of Monteleones have dedicated themselves to making their hotel what it was and still is — a sparkling jewel in the heart of the French Quarter. There have been five major additions to the Hotel Monteleone. The first was in 1903 when 30 rooms were added. The next addition occurred in 1908, during a time of financial panic in the United States; when 300 more rooms were added. 1908 was also the year that the name of the hotel was changed from the Commercial Hotel to Hotel Monteleone. In 1913, Antonio Monteleone passed away and was succeeded by his son Frank who added 200 more rooms in 1928, a year before another horrible crash in the U.S. economy. The Hotel Monteleone was one of America’s few family- owned hotels to weather the depression, and remained unchanged until 1954. That year the fourth addition required the razing of the original building and the foundation was laid for a completely new building that would include guest facilities, ballrooms, dining rooms and cocktail lounges. In 1964, under the direction of Bill Monteleone, who took over after his father passed in 1958, more floors, guestrooms, and a Sky Terrace with swimming pools and cocktail lounges were added.

Monteleone-Rooms

With its’ 126-year history and wonderful French Quarter location, the Hotel Monteleone is the best place to begin experiencing New Orleans. After all, it has been said that “the French Quarter begins in the lobby of the Hotel Monteleone.” Located within the hotel Monteleone is one of the French Quarters most prestigious destinations, The Famous Carousel Bar. A long-time favorite New Orleans hotspot and the city’s only revolving bar, the famous Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone has lured guests in to take a spin on the 25-seat, bright circus-clad Merry-Go-Round; the only carousel you have be to 21 years of age to ride! It overlooks famed Royal Street through large fan windows and has long been a favorite of both locals and tourists.

Monteleone-carousel

Installed in 1949, the 25-seat bar turns on 2,000 large steel rollers, pulled by a chain powered by a one-quarter horsepower motor. Patrons circumnavigate at one revolution every 15 minutes, but the ride doesn’t end there. Since 1949, some of its riders’ most creative ideas, inspirations and business deals have been shaken and stirred to fruition here, not to mention some of the best spirits. Two famous drinks were first concocted by Carousel bartenders: The Goody and The Vieux Carre Cocktail (*see below for recipes). In the early days of the Carousel Bar, the hotel was the home to the famous Swan Room, a nightclub where celebrities such as Liberace performed. It wasn’t unusual for the performers to join their friends for a nightcap after their shows. The bar was renovated in 1992 when the current carousel top was added. In 2011, the Hotel Monteleone started an extensive renovation and expansion of the famous Carousel Bar & Lounge. The Carousel Bar area now has a soothing slate color on the walls adorned with antiqued mirrors as well as new furniture and wooden floors. While the authentic Carousel top and the hand-painted chairs around the revolving bar remain the same, the bar now has more lighting underneath the Carousel top and a new pewter bar surface.

Monteleone-carousel-seating

The Hotel expanded the lounge area and opened up the room with coffered ceiling designs and customized crown molding, circular glass chandeliers and expansive windows along Royal Street. Soft white walls complement the French limestone floors while the new furniture adds a pop of color with golden yellows, soft pinks and powder blues. An additional crescent-shaped bar and more seating provide ample room for thirsty patrons to mix, mingle and enjoy the free live musical entertainment. William Faulkner, Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote, Eudora Welty and Winston Groom are among the famous authors who have enjoyed drinks in the Carousel Bar & Lounge. Today, the Carousel still attracts celebrities, including some recent sightings— Rod Stewart, Paul Simon, Dennis Quaid, Nicolas Cage, Quentin Tarantino, Stephen Baldwin, Michael Jordan, Greg Allman and Sally Struthers. In addition to live musical entertainment, the Carousel Bar & Lounge also offers a small “bar bites” menu, featuring dishes as Blue Crab & Crawfish Beignets and Mini Monte Po Boys. Food service is available from 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.

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The Hotel Monteleone has the distinct honor of being dedicated as a Literary Landmark by the Friends of Libraries USA. Over the years, the hotel has housed numerous celebrities including many famous writers such as: Pulitzer Prize winner Richard Ford, Tennessee Williams, Eudora Welty, William Faulkner, Sherwood Anderson, and Truman Capote. Interestingly, the Hotel Monteleone is actually featured in stories by both Welty and Ford and Truman Capote claims to have been born while his parents were staying at the Hotel Monteleone. There are countless other stories that continue to make the life of the Hotel Monteleone quite an interesting and intriguing one.

Literary-2 Special thanks to the Hotel Monteleone for providing imagery and information

“The Point of drinking in moderation is that sometimes you don’t drink in moderation.”

In New Orleans, finding a place to have a drink should be the furthest from your worries. In a city that allows you to walk around the streets with ‘To-Go Cups’ of alcohol, you should feel right at home if you feel like getting a little tipsy. There are bars around every corner, and it’s much harder deciding what you’re going to drink, rather than where.

But on the off chance that you need a little bit of guidance, one place that I recommend is Pirates Alley Cafe and Absinthe House.

I’ve tried absinthe before, and in fact I have a bottle at home, but it’s rare to find authentic absinthe at any bar in North America. Not only does Pirate’s Alley feature this legendary liqueur, but they also have multiple fountains to facilitate the delicate process of releasing the green fairy.

Cure

Cure is one of those cocktail bars that strives to push the art of mixing a drink to unconventional levels. It is consistently on the list of best bars not only in New Orleans, but also North America. The interior is beautifully designed, and their patio is lush with gorgeous plants, soft lighting and nice big tables for groups. If you’re into the craft cocktail movement, and testing the heights that cocktails could go, don’t miss out on this gem.

Cocktail culture is alive in New Orleans, and as one of the chief cities when it comes to libations, there are hundreds of craft cocktail chefs waiting for you to join them at the wood. Complex magazine recently put together a list of the best cocktail bars in New Orleans. Here’s the link for your pleasure.

Long after your visit has ended, New Orleans is a city that finds a way to stay with you. Whether it’s the memory of the amazing cuisine, people, or the feeling you get from walking through the quarter, New Orleans finds a way to stay in your heart. You’ll find yourself longing for that southern drawl, and maybe even wishing you had one yourself. You’ll visit restaurants in your city, and what you thought tasted like heaven a mere week before, just won’t have the right spice.

The city seduces you in ways you’ve never experienced. It’s like that vacation ‘fling’ that left you with pleasure that took you to new heights, and left you forever changed. You owe it to yourself to experience the ways that New Orleans can change and inspire you, so why wait?

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Words by Nana · Filed under Featured

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